Laura and Legal Aid of Cambodia

I ate ants (and water snakes and sheep brains…)

2005-07-21T03:29:00.000-07:00

I’ve taken a bit of a vacation from blogging, so I’ll briefly give you the highlights of the last couple weeks.

I had a bad case of food poisoning shortly after my last entry. It was rough. It was so bad that I willingly went to the doctor the next afternoon, and I had an IV inserted into my arm. The IV revived me, and I felt good enough to go to Siem Reap the following weekend.

Siem Reap was incredible. I’ve never seen anything quite like Angkor Wat—not only is it magnificent and beautiful, but a feeling of peace and tranquility transcends the entire complex. We visited many, many temples during our weekend, and all had something different to offer.

The following weekend, I accompanied some LAC staffers to Battambang Province while they were conducting workshops on children’s rights. All the staffers worked in the Juvenile Unit (JU) at LAC. We had meetings with the commune leaders to discuss problems they were facing and solutions. The village chief, deputy chief, and police chief were all present along with about 20-30 volunteers who want to help children. A major focus of these meetings was to educate the commune leaders so they could take their new knowledge to the community. We also met with children from the commune to educate them about their rights and to talk about solutions to problems they were facing. Vibol, the head of JU, pointed out that most NGOs in Cambodia help only “good” children, but LAC works with all children and tries to give them all a fair chance.

We held a particularly interesting training session for police chiefs and deputies from about 12-13 communes. One of the officers argued with Vibol about Cambodian law. Under the Convention on the Rights of the Child, a child under the age of 12 cannot be punished for a crime. However, this officer believed that anyone who commits a crime should be punished, regardless of his or her age. This officer was arguing against one of the most fundamental laws in Cambodia regarding children’s rights, and he firmly believed that he was correct. Vibol explained the law to him. Cambodian police officers never receive formal training, so there is very little uniform knowledge amongst the officers. During most of the training session, the JU staff seemed to be educating the police about the most basic elements of the law and simple human rights. This workshop reminded me of why I chose to work with LAC over other NGOs. At this workshop, Cambodian lawyers were educating local police officers. Real and lasting change has to come from within Cambodia. Foreigners and foreign NGOs can help shape the new Cambodia, but Cambodians must be the ones to make real change.

I really enjoyed my time with the JU staff. I shared a room with Mealea and Meng Ing, the two female lawyers in JU. Mealea is a 30-year old lawyer, and Meng Ing is a 24-year old lawyer. We spent a lot of time together in our hotel room. The training sessions and meetings were quite tiring, and we were very exhausted at the end of the day. Mealea and Meng introduced me to a lot of Cambodian soap operas and Chinese movies. I had the pleasure of listening to even more Khmer karaoke videos.

I also tried some Cambodian delicacies while I was in Battambang. In the countryside, restaurants rarely can serve fresh vegetables during the dry season, so we were forced to eat what they had on hand. Most notably, I sampled water snake (not my favorite), sheep brains (which I had the honor of adding to our cook-your-own-soup pot), and ants (which were actually quite good, as long as I didn’t look at their little legs...) When I returned to LAC in Phnom Penh after five days in Battambang, the receptionist exclaimed that I had lost a lot of weight—maybe I should eat Khmer food more often. :)

Our new Khmer family member!

2005-06-14T03:20:00.000-07:00

Last week we started Khmer lessons. We meet for an hour every morning, and we will have 10 hours of class before our lessons end. The words we have learnt have been very helpful. Our teacher Monivan is a very atypical young Khmer woman. When she graduated from high school in a small village in rural Cambodia, she moved by herself to Phnom Penh to teach Khmer to foreigners. A young woman moving by herself to a city to teach Khmer is virtually unheard of in the countryside, which makes Monivan even more interesting. Monivan’s courage and determination inspire me.

We also had a meeting with the director of the legal program at the Royal Institute of Law and Economics and his assistant. The director was a practicing attorney when the Khmer Rouge came into power, and he was one of seven attorneys who actually survived the Democratic Republic of Kampuchea. I wish I had asked him more questions about his experiences during the reign of the Khmer Rouge, but I did not know if it would be appropriate for me to ask such questions. He had a very gentle and kind face. His smile was so sweet and serene—he had a peace about him. I could sense that a lot of difficulty and hardship existed in his past.

The other interns and I have been working on a database of all existing Cambodian laws for LAC. This task is rather dry, but I think it will be helpful for us to learn more about Cambodian laws. Many of the laws are poorly worded in the English translation, and some of the laws appear redundant, and in some cases, contradictory.

On a light side note, the other interns and I hired Yok Hiep’s friend as a cook for three days of the week. I am really looking forward to eating some good Khmer food and hopefully learning some cooking techniques from Phy (pronounced “Pee”.) Phy seems very sweet and kind, and her only English words are “thank you” and “I’m sorry” (although I did teach her “rain” on the way to our house.) She is really excited to cook for us, and I think she is also excited to learn some English. (I’m also hoping to pick up more Khmer from her.) Yok Hiep said that Phy has no family, and she sleeps at Yok Hiep’s house. Phy will sleep at our house three nights of the week so she won’t have to wake so early in the morning to prepare our breakfast. Marlou, the administrative consultant at LAC, said that Phy is a fortune teller, and Leigh Anne thinks that Phy is the same woman who read her fortune by the Mekong River when she visited Phnom Penh in April. Crazy. I think Phy is going to make our house very interesting for the next two months…

Cambodian Supreme Court and our new home!

2005-06-12T19:21:00.000-07:00

On Thursday, June 2, the other interns and I went to the Cambodian Supreme Court to hear an LAC lawyer argued a case. The Cambodian Supreme Court is MUCH different from the U.S. Supreme Court. The courtroom is not protected by security, nor air-conditioned. The room is bare and quite run-down. Only five of the nine justices listened to the case.

The procedure was quite different from American civil procedure. We listened to a case involving a contract dispute. After a judge read a summary of the case, the appellee first stated his argument, followed by the appellant’s argument. The justices were free to ask questions at any time. After the appellant’s argument, the lawyers for each party were allowed to make their case. LAC’s lawyer made recommendations to the justices, including what questions the justices should ask the appellee. The opposing counsel never questions an opposing party at any point throughout the trial.

Most notably, the courtroom was much less formal than an American courtroom. While the LAC lawyer’s client was arguing his case, the LAC lawyer’s mobile phone rang. He answered his phone in court. Also, a justice’s phone rang, and he answered it while another justice was talking.

The LAC client and the opposing party were disputing over interest payments following the contract. Essentially, the case boiled down to a he said/she said dispute, and the LAC lawyer nearly accused the other party of lying on the stand. After the LAC lawyer finished arguing his case, our client sat with the spectators as he waited for his verdict. (The justices decide each case the same day the case is argued.) While the other cases were argued, our client opened his Bible and began reading, as if to say, "Look, justices--I'm the one telling the truth!"

After a week of extensive apartment shopping, we found a great house to rent. It is located only a 10-minute walk from work, and all of us have our own rooms and bathrooms. The house costs less than the guesthouse we were staying at, and we even have two kitchens and an amazing patio (it even has ceiling fans!) It’s much more comfortable than the guesthouse, and it’s nice to have our own space.

Speaking of the other legal interns, I should probably say a few words about each of them (so I no longer need to ambiguously refer to them as “the other interns.”) Mike is from Minnesota and is a student at William Mitchell. As I mentioned in my first entry, we were lucky enough to meet in Minneapolis before we left for Cambodia (and fortunately I met his wife Mary, whom Mike misses terribly.) For his research topic, he is focusing on Cambodian land use issues—a really big deal right now because corrupt government officials and military leaders have been taking advantage of illiterate and poor farmers and seizing their land unfairly. Mike and I met up in Bangkok, and we flew to Phnom Penh together—I consider him my oldest friend in Cambodia. :)

Matt is from California and attends Harvard University. He arrived in Phnom Penh a night before the rest of us, so he managed to explore the city a little before we arrive (including buying a nice “authentic” Swiss watch at the Central Market.) He just bought a moto from a friend who is returning to the US next week, and he is a pretty good driver. I’ve rode with him a few times, and I think that I should start wearing the helmet I bought last Sunday a bit more frequently. (Just because of the other drivers, not because of his driving skills—I swear!)

Leigh Anne was the last to arrive in Phnom Penh, and we didn’t meet until Monday morning before work. Leigh Anne hails from Toronto, and she attends Victoria College. She spent last semester interning at a corporate law firm in Bangkok, and she’s lead a really interesting life and traveled a lot. She’s trying to talk her parents into visiting Cambodia (as am I—hopefully one of us will succeed.)

We even have roommate who doesn’t work at LAC. Gabe is from New Jersey, and he and Matt are good friends from law school. Gabe works at the Documentation Center of Cambodia, and he’s a really good guy. He and Matt are going to take over a local radio show while they are here—it should be quite interesting…

All of the interns are really great—very interesting people who are really laid-back. We spend all our time together—we work together, live together, and eat together...) By August 5th, we are either going to be really tired of each other or suffer severe separation anxiety when we part. They are really wonderful, and they are like my family in Cambodia.

Both Leigh Anne and Matt would like to do their projects on evidence issues with rape cases, and Leigh Anne is also interested in working on domestic violence issues. Legislation is pending right now in Cambodia that aims to strengthen domestic violence laws, so it is a very timely issue. Speaking of research projects, I think I have zoned my project further. I met a woman at the gym yesterday, and she suggested that I analyze the latest version of the Cambodian anti-trafficking draft law. I am very excited about this new project, and I think it will be helpful to LAC, the NGOs in Cambodia, and the women and children who are affected by trafficking. The woman also gave me the names of several contacts who will help jumpstart my research.

This entry has gotten quite long, so I’ll write more later…

International Children's Day and Tuol Sleng

2005-06-12T19:16:00.000-07:00

OK, so many things have happened in the past 10 days. All last week, I felt like I was on sensory overload, and I just didn’t have time to process or think through all the things I was experiencing. I have had a little time to reflect this past weekend, so hopefully I’ll be able to convey my thoughts coherently.

On Wednesday, June 1st, we celebrated International Children’s Day. Our co-worker Samnang met us at our guesthouse at 6:50 AM. All of us interns (more about the other interns later) were donning these great International Children’s Day t-shirts and hats that Samnang had given us the day earlier. We arrived at Wat Phnom in the center of Phnom Penh and were surrounded by hundreds of children wearing similar t-shirts and hats. And about the “march” I mentioned earlier—we walked around the hill on which Wat Phnom sits to the other side, where a stage was set up and surrounded by many, many chairs for the children. (The entire “march” took about 10 minutes. I had been wondering if I should wear my sneakers, but I’m glad that I wore my flip-flops.)

At the ceremony, many prominent speakers spoke, including the head of UNICEF and Cambodian Prime Minister Hun Sen. It was pretty neat to hear Hun Sen speak, even though he only spoke in Khmer. The poor children had to sit in the hot sunlight for over two hours listening to the speakers drone on and on. Fortunately, they played games and participated in a drawing contest after the ceremony finished. The theme for the UN-sponsored drawing contest was “Stop the exploitation of children and violence towards children.” Pretty light topic for a children drawing contest, isn’t it? Even more disturbing was the fact that the children had no problem drawing pictures exhibiting the theme—despite their short lives, they understand all too well the meaning of exploitation and violence.

In the afternoon, I visited Tuol Sleng museum. Once a high school, Pol Pot’s security forces turned it into the largest detention and torture center in the country from 1975-1978. Approximately 20,000 people died at Tuol Sleng or in the Killing Fields just outside of Phnom Penh. Only 7 people survived Tuol Sleng.

Tuol Sleng has photos of every person who entered its prison gates. The photo records were taken in case a prisoner escaped, so the guards could easily find the prisoner. Many torture instruments were displayed at Tuol Sleng, and blood stains were still on the walls and floors. One of the buildings was converted into small cells (approximately five feet by three feet) for individual prisoners. Several prisoners tried to kill themselves (and a few succeeded) because they did not want to be subject to further torture, even though suicide is condemned by Buddhist doctrine. On the scale of human life, the higher the life form, the greater one’s obligation to it. Human life is the greatest gift of all, and throwing away one’s own life was the greatest of all sins. The Khmer Rouge eventually had to cover the walls of the school with barbed wire because so many prisoners attempted suicide by jumping off the balcony while they were being lead to the torture chambers. It is very difficult for me to comprehend how anyone could be pushed to do such awful things to another person. Fear leads people to do crazy, awful, unthinkable things.

My first day of work

2005-05-30T07:55:00.000-07:00

Today was my first day of work at LAC. I finally met the people with whom I had been exchanging emails over the past couple months. Everyone is so kind and friendly. Most of the staff is crowded into small office spaces with limited air-conditioning. The office hours are from 7:30 AM to 12:30 PM, and from 2:30 PM to 5:30 PM. The extended lunchbreak provides some relief from the heat.

Yok Hiep, the head of the General Practice Unit, provided me with a great deal of material on human trafficking issues. She also provided me with contact information of people at other NGOs who will be able to guide me through my research project. I will be attending a meeting on trafficking sponsored by World Vision tomorrow afternoon. I'm really excited about my research project, and the LAC staff seems very excited to help me with my research.

Tomorrow morning the interns (there are four of us from different law schools in the US and Canada) are going to watch a LAC lawyer argue cases before the Cambodian Supreme Court and the Cambodian Appellate Court. I'm really excited. On Wednesday, Cambodia celebrates International Children's Day, and one of the LAC staffers invited us to join a celebration sponsored by various NGOs in Cambodia. He brought t-shirts and hats exhorting International Children's Day for us to wear while we are "marching"(none of us really understand what we will be doing, but be assured that I will keep you all updated.)

The energy and enthusiasm at LAC is infectious. This country is so vibrant, and the people are so remarkable. I am so happy to be here.

I've arrived!

2005-05-30T06:48:00.000-07:00

I arrived in Cambodia yesterday afternoon. This country is so amazing and so unlike any other place I've been. The people don't have much, but they have such sweet and gentle spirits. When you look into their faces and eyes, you can see that they have seen much sorrow in their past.

A severe drought has plagued Cambodia over the past couple years. Approximately 80% of Cambodia's population resides in the country, but many people have been forced to move to the city to search for work. The people are eager to work. Children run up to foreigners, carrying boxes of bootlegged books for sale. Drivers of motorcycle taxis and tuk-tuks (a motorcycle or bicycle attached to a large box-like structure that seats 3-4 people comfortably) wait patiently for riders. Last night, our tuk-tuk driver waited over 3 hours for us to take us home. We paid him $3 for the round-trip ride.

Most of the roads in Cambodia are unpaved and quite bumpy. The traffic is crazy--traffic laws don't really seem to apply here. Motorbikes and cars weave past each other on the main roads. To make a left turn, cars just slowly drive into the oncoming lanes until the motorbikes and other various vehicles make room for the automobile. I've seen a family of five riding on the back of a motorbike.

This country is really special, and I am so happy to be here.

Preparing to leave

2005-05-18T18:38:00.000-07:00

As I finish packing in preparation for my departure, I find myself anxious, nervous, and excited for what awaits me in Phnom Penh.

Last week, I met with Kimberly of the UMN Human Rights Center for a brief orientation. During our meeting, I realized that I would soon be in Cambodia and working with Legal Aid of Cambodia (LAC) to combat human trafficking. I also realized what a great opportunity I have through this internship to help people.

I was very fortunate to meet Saroeun, a Cambodian-American Ole, who knew my younger sister from St. Olaf. Saroeun's parents are survivors of the Khmer Rouge, and she was born in a refugee camp in Thailand. She is a really amazing woman, and I hope to spend more time with her this summer since she will also be in Phnom Penh. I also met fellow LAC intern Mike Neaton and his wife. They spent 3 weeks in Cambodia last summer, and they provided me with a lot of good advice.

I leave tomorrow morning. I'm excited!